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California patchCalifornia Drywall Patch.
The piece of drywall that you cut should be the same shape as the hole you are repairing but be larger all around. See the diagram beside for a better understanding. Break the drywall along all four sides where you just scored the backer paper. As you pull the small strips from each side it should tear away from the paper that is on the front of the piece of drywall.
Pull the gypsum completely from the paper leaving only gypsum in the center of your patch with paper flaps extending on all four sides. Click to enlarge the photos for more details. Now you are ready to prepare the hole the wall that you are trying to repair. Score the paper on the surface surrounding the hole to be repaired. Remove the paper from around the hole. This provides an area for the paper flaps to be placed and makes the final patch flatter in relation to the surrounding drywall rather than sitting on top of the surrounding drywall.
Check the patch for proper fit. Trim any excess gypsum on the patch so it fits snugly into the hole. Spread all purpose drywall mud or quick set drywall mud around the hole to be repaired.
Install your prepared drywall patch into the hole and press the paper along each edge into the drywall mud that you just smeared around the edges of the wall patch. Using a five or six inch drywall knife , flatten the paper evenly around all four edges of the patch. Take care not to leave too much drywall mud behind the paper flaps that will now hold your patch in place. After the drywall mud has dried, Use a ten or twelve inch drywall knife to coat around all sides of your wall patch. Feather out the edges of the mud so that they blend well with the surrounding area.
Use at least two thin coats of drywall mud to coat over the top of your patch. You can also use a different thickness of drywall. Another plus is that the drywall paper is thinner than most joint tape, making it easier to float out.
You can push that a little bit, but you want to be careful to get it close to flush. The bigger the patch, the easier it is to fall into or out of the hole. Which is super helpful when drilling through the top or bottom plate. A California patch is the ideal solution for this kind of repair. But generally, if your repair is much bigger than that, you can still use a piece of scrap wood as a backer. A California drywall patch is also a little more difficult on ceilings, though it can be done.
As you can imagine, they tend to sag a bit. Just be sure to make the fitting tight enough to hold until the mud dries. Alternatively, you can use a traditional board or a couple of Insta-Back clips to hold it in place until the mud dries. Step 1: Square up the hole. Step 3: Flip the scrap piece upside down and center it under the hole. Mark the inside dimensions for your vertical cuts. Step 4: Orienting the piece in the same direction, center the scrap next to the hole and mark the edges.
This will be your horizontal cuts. Step 5: Square up and score the back side of the drywall. I know, this goes against everything you were taught about cutting drywall. But trust me, this is the exception. Step 6: This is where we diverge from typical drywall cutting. Step 7: Grab the snapped piece with your thumbs on the front side and your fingers grabbing the snapped piece on the back side.
Step 8: Gently roll the snapped piece by pulling your fingers in and pushing your thumbs out and away. Step 9: As you roll the piece, it detaches from the front paper starting at the scored edge and pulling out.
Simply peel the cut piece from the face paper. You should have a repair piece with one floppy piece of paper hanging off. Step Repeat steps for each side. Tip: start with your shortest piece. The smaller the piece the more difficult it is to snap off. And the more you snap off the smaller the remaining pieces are. Step You should be left with a drywall plug surrounded by loose paper.
Clean off any residual gypsum on the paper. Step The plug should fit inside the hole. Dry fit it and make any adjustments, being careful not to cut through the face paper. The basic premise here is to glue and fill the patch into place.
Here are a couple of things to take note of:. You want your patch to be as near to flush with the wall as you can. But if you have to err on one side, remember that in is better than out. Unlike burps. You want to fill the gaps around the patch, but not so much that the mud falls into the cavity. Which, by this point, already has a few dozen wall anchors, backing boards, and a fishing rod stuck inside.
Ok, so we have those details worked out. Keep those in mind as we go through these steps of installation. Step 1: Mix up some hot mud. You could use bucket mud, but it will take longer to dry.
Step 3: Now take some mud and smear it on the backside of the California patch. Generously scraping it around the edges, again to fill the gap. You can never have too much cream cheese. Step 4: Place the drywall patch into the hole.
The paper should now be resting on the bed of mud. Step 5: Now smooth out the excess mud, carefully squeezing it out from under the paper. I like to pull diagonally from each corner out to get the majority of the mud out. Then, just as when taping a drywall joint, start in the middle and pull parallel with the patch in each direction. You can use a heat gun to speed this up if you would like. The idea is to start feathering out the paper of the California patch.
Let this dry completely. Put a little more pressure on the outside of the knife. You can use hot mud on the second coat or start using bucket mud. This should take 3 passes, depending on the width of your patch. The first two passes start at the outside edge and the last pass goes down the middle. Step 8: Let it dry completely. If you used hot mud, you can start speeding it up with a heat gun after minutes. California State News 58, visits in the last 30 days Get started!
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